One of the challenges of solo travel is the art of taking selfies. I’m not the type to carry around a stand or a selfie stick, so I’ve had to get creative. Luckily, people are usually happy to take photos for you if you ask. To find the right person, I’d look for a family or fellow solo traveler snapping a selfie and offer to take it for them. Most of the time, they’d say yes and then ask if I’d like a photo in return—or I’d simply ask. It’s all about finding those little moments of connection.
A ‘Me Before You’ Experience:
My absolute favorite book is Me Before You by Jojo Moyes, so when I finally made it to Paris, I was determined to channel my inner Louisa Clark and live out her Paris adventure. That meant one thing: black and yellow tights, and a chance to reenact the iconic final scene from the book.
My first stop? A cozy café in Le Marais, located in the 4th arrondissement—also known as SoMa (South Marais). In the book, Will Traynor mentions Café Marquis on Rue des Francs Bourgeois, but to my knowledge, that café doesn’t exist, and the one from the movie isn’t on that street either. So, I set out to find one that matched Will’s description of this little slice of Parisian heaven.
Midway through the book (page 193, for fellow book lovers), Louisa asks Will about the best place he’s ever visited. His answer sticks with me:
“Paris. I would sit outside a café in Le Marais and drink coffee, and eat a plate of warm croissants with unsalted butter and strawberry jam.
Le Marais?
It’s a little district in the center of Paris. Full of cobbled streets and teetering apartment blocks and gay men and Orthodox Jews and women of a certain age who once looked like Brigitte Bardot. It’s the only place to stay.”
Then, in the epilogue (don’t worry, no spoilers here):
“On the front of the envelope, in typed capitals, it said, under my name: ONLY TO BE READ IN THE CAFE MARQUIS, RUE DES FRANCS BOURGEOIS, ACCOMPANIED BY CROISSANTS AND A LARGE CAFÉ CRÈME. I had laughed, even as I wept, on first reading the envelope – typical Will, bossy to the last.”
I found the perfect spot—Le Voltigeur on Rue des Francs Bourgeois. With its yellow tables and white folding chairs beneath a charming awning, it felt like the café straight out of Will’s letter. So there I was, in my black and yellow tights, with my copy of Me Before You, sipping coffee and savoring a warm croissant.
The waitress, as if sensing the significance of the moment, kindly took my photo. And of course, I took several more, soaking in every bit of magic. I even struck up a conversation with the lady next to me, and for a brief, hopeful second, the wild part of my brain thought she might be Jojo Moyes herself! I even sneakily snapped a picture to send to a friend. Turns out, she wasn’t—but a girl can dream, right?
With a full heart and a satisfied stomach, I moved on to the next Parisian spot from Will’s letter:
“And if you look down the road to your left, you will hopefully see L’Artisan Parfumeur, where, after you read this, you should try the scent called something like Papillons Extreme (can’t quite remember). I always did think it would smell great on you.”
Sure enough, L’Artisan Parfumeur was just down the street. Grinning from ear to ear, I snapped a few photos. Since I was traveling on a budget and the shop looked as fancy as it sounds, I decided not to go inside to smell the perfume—yet! I promised myself that one day, I’d come back when I could afford a bottle.
From there, I made my way to the café Louisa visits in the movie, and then to the bridge she walks to in the end. It was the perfect morning. Sometimes, your dreams might seem silly to others, but remember: you only live once—so live boldly!
Emily in Paris:
After finishing my Louisa Clark adventure, I found a clean public restroom for a quick costume change. Now, it was time to live out my best Emily in Paris life! The night before, I splurged on a red beret at Galeries Lafayette Haussmann for €31, and earlier that morning, I picked up a baguette and some heart-shaped cheese from a local market.
My next stop? The bench that Emily and Mindy visit, nestled within the beautifully landscaped grounds of the Palais-Royal. It was buzzing with life during lunch, but I managed to find a quiet corner to sit, enjoy my lunch, and soak in the Parisian atmosphere. It’s easy to see why Emily loves this city so much—the joy here is contagious, and I couldn’t keep the smile off my face.
While I was still dressed in my cute Emily outfit, I made sure to stop by the very first Christian Louboutin store. I do own a pair (though I had to leave them at home for this trip), but I wasn’t planning on making a purchase this time around. The gentleman inside couldn’t have been kinder, and even though I wasn’t buying anything, he still gave me a tour of the small but iconic space.
To top off the day, I had a reservation at the Louvre. Let me tell you, wandering through those historic halls in my Emily in Paris outfit felt just right.
I finished off the perfect day with a Kir Royale—a drink Emily tries in Season 3 of Emily in Paris. Because if you’re going to live out your Parisian fantasies, you might as well do it with style!
Today’s helpful tips
Le Voltigeur on Rue des Francs Bourgeois
I loved this cafe so much that in addition to the coffee and croissant, I came back the next day for Quiche and another coffee. Visit the cafe at: 45 Rue des Francs Bourgeois, 75004 Paris, France
L’Artisan Parfumeur
Want to visit and pick up your own Will Traynor recommended scent? You can visit the Parfumeur at: 19 Rue des Francs Bourgeois, 75004 Paris, France
Galeries Lafayette Haussmann
Where you can purchase your own beret!
Emily in Paris Bench
The bench is located in the gardens of Palais-Royal. Located at: 8 Rue de Montpensier, 75001 Paris, France
Christian Louboutin
Home to the original store! They are very nice and are happy to show you around and point out the history. Located at: 19 Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, 75001 Paris, France