Traveling through Hamburg, Germany, has been nothing short of captivating, blending somber history with joyful surprises. The city’s cold October weather was a reminder that autumn in Northern Europe isn’t for the faint-hearted. I was glad I brought a cozy sweatshirt, though there were moments I nearly reached for my heavier coat. Fortunately, the adventure and charm of Hamburg were enough to keep me warm.
St. Nikolai Memorial: A Haunting Glimpse into History
One of my first stops was the St. Nikolai Memorial, once a grand cathedral originally built in 1195. After a devastating fire in 1842, the church was rebuilt, only to face near-total destruction again during WWII. Today, what remains serves as a powerful memorial to the war’s impact, with part of the structure left in ruins as a reminder.
For just €6, visitors can take an elevator to the top of the tower, where sweeping views of Hamburg await. The admission also grants access to the museum below, which tells the harrowing story of the city’s history during WWII.
This museum was one of the most emotional experiences I’ve ever had. It covers the effects of Nazi propaganda, the early discrimination against Jews before the establishment of concentration camps, and the ominous lead-up to the Allied bombing of Hamburg. One detail that stood out was how people’s social status determined their access to bomb shelters—leaving Jewish citizens with nowhere to turn. I teared up several times as I read stories I hadn’t encountered before, and the museum’s raw honesty left a lasting impression.
A Pink Escape at the ASTOR Film Lounge
After my emotional visit to St. Nikolai, I needed something to lift my spirits. Luckily, I had been dying to watch the Barbie movie, and I found a theater showing it in English with German subtitles—ASTOR Film Lounge HafenCity.
This theater was an experience in itself! Upon arrival, I was greeted with a complimentary Pink Spritz—a playful twist on an Aperol Spritz that matched the movie’s theme perfectly. Before the film began, the red curtains drew back, and we were treated to a whimsical light show accompanied by iconic scores from movies like Harry Potter and Titanic.
The Barbie movie was everything I hoped for—fun, nostalgic, and emotional. One particular line hit me hard: “We mothers stand still so our daughters can look back and see how far they’ve come.” Sitting in a theater in Germany, far from Texas, I couldn’t help but think of my mom cheering me on from afar, making this moment all the more meaningful.
Exploring the Old Elbe Tunnel
The Old Elbe Tunnel, opened in 1911, was another highlight of my Hamburg experience. This pedestrian and vehicle tunnel runs beneath the Elbe River, connecting central Hamburg with the southern docks. I opted to take the spiral staircase down, though elevators are also available.
Walking through the tunnel was surreal. The fact that this engineering marvel has been functioning for over a century amazed me. In the early 1900s, it provided a quicker route for workers traveling between the shipyards and the city, replacing the ferry service. It’s still a functional part of Hamburg’s infrastructure, with separate sections for cars, cyclists, and pedestrians.
Satisfying My Appetite in Hamburg
Hamburg’s culinary scene did not disappoint! From cozy bars to quirky food spots, I discovered some fantastic places to eat and drink during my stay.
Sands Bar: Located just across the park from my hotel, this was the perfect place to warm up with another Aperol Spritz after an evening stroll through the park’s lovely grounds.
Posh Potatoes: While escaping the chilly weather inside a mall, I stumbled upon this creative potato bar. I ordered the Goat’s Dream, a potato topped with rocket salad, red cabbage, goat cheese, dried tomato, herb sauce, pine nuts, and honey fig mustard—it was absolutely divine!
Gretchens Villa: One crisp morning, I braved the cold to enjoy breakfast on the patio of this charming café. Their Gretchens Strammer Start—scrambled eggs on sourdough with cheddar, tomatoes, cream cheese, red pesto, and avocado—paired perfectly with a hot Americano.
Hofbräu: No trip to Germany would be complete without at least one touristy stop, so I indulged at Hofbräu. Yes, it’s a bit cliché, but who can say no to a hearty meal of beer, pretzels, and cheese soup?
Final Thoughts on Hamburg
Hamburg enchanted me with its mix of history, heart, and hidden gems. From sobering moments at the St. Nikolai Memorial to the joyful whimsy of the Barbie movie at ASTOR Film Lounge, the city offered a well-rounded experience. Whether walking through the Old Elbe Tunnel or warming up with delicious meals, Hamburg showed me that even in the cold, there’s warmth to be found in adventure.
If you’re planning a trip to Germany, don’t skip Hamburg. It offers a bit of everything—rich history, modern fun, and culinary delights that will leave you wanting more.
Today’s Tips
St. Nikolai Memorial – A wonderful place to visit and immerse yourself in the history of Hamburg. For €6, you can visit the top of the church which allows for beautiful views of the city! Your ticket also comes with admission to the museum which goes into the history of the church and WWII. You can purchase this on site without any issues.
ASTOR Film Lounge HafenCity – If you need a break from sightseeing and are in the mood for a movie, this theatre is incredible! If you are not in the mood for a movie, I recommend stopping by their beautiful lounge for a drink.
Old Elbe Tunnel – Always free to pedestrians and a fun walk below the water and great views of the city from the ship channel.
